Sensitive skin formulation
The most common area of error for making sensitive skin products is "ingredient as little as possible". In fact, what sensitive skin formulation needs is not "declining" but "accombining" -- each layer has a clear functional target.
Sensitive skin model for sensitive skin
Understand sensitive skin formulation, first understand skin barrier. Think of it as a brick wall:
- Brick = horny cell
- Ash = intercellular lipid (ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acid)
- Wall paint = fat membrane
The central problem of sensitive skin is the absence of "silk" - ceramide is 40-60% lower than a healthy skin, causing the barrier "spill" and external irritation to drive directly into inflammation.
Therefore, the core structure of sensitive skin formulation should be:
First level: barrier repairing
Core ingredient
##1. ceramide (Ceramide)
Ceramide is the core of intercellular lipid ingredient, accounting for 40-50 per cent of surface lipid.
Formulation technique:
- Ceramide set of three (NP:AP:EOP = 3:1:1) simulates natural ratio, repairing works best
- Ceramide lipid solubility, emulsification packaged, almost insoluble in aqueous solution
- Matching with cholesterol + fatty acid at 3:1 ratio (i.e. "gold ratio"), repairing efficiency 3 times higher
- Source selection: Ceramide Complex GO in Evonik, Germany, is the industry pole, and emerging brands is also a price-for-money option.
## 2. Cholesterol
- Function: Filling the lipid gap between cells and enhancing the confidentiality of the barrier
- Recommended concentration: 0.5-1%
- Note: concentration should not be too high when matching ceramide, otherwise it affects infiltration
Fatty acid (Free Fatty Acids)
- Function: Form a layer structure with ceramide to build physical barriers
- Recommended ingredient: sub-oilic acid, subsymmetric acid
- Recommended concentration: 0.3-0.8%
Second floor: soothing anti-inflammation layer
Core ingredient
#1. centella asiatica (Asiaticoside)
##2 bisabolol (Bisabolol)
##3 panthenol (Panthenol / panthenol)
##4 allantoin (Allantoin)
Third level: moisturizing moisture retention
Core ingredient comparison
Formulation technique
- Layer moisturizing policy: water moisturizing formulation (hyaluronic acid + glycerin) is responsible for "sorting water" and oilic closure agent (squalane + ceramide) is responsible for "moisture retention "
- Hyaluronic acid molecular mass mix: Large molecule (>100kDa) surface membrane + Small molecule (<100kDa) deep penetration, dual effect
- Glycerin concentration control: sensitive skin formulation glycerin not more than 8%, overdosed with skin moisture in dry environments
Level 4: Defense protection
Role of sun protection agent in sensitive skin formulation
Purely sun protection formulations (mmonium dioxide, zinc oxide) have a double value in sensitive skin formulation:
- Sun protection function: protection against UV-induced barrier damage
- Separating function: Physical particles form a protective film on the skin surface to reduce external irritation
Recommended mix:
- Titanium dioxide 2-5% + zinc oxide 3-8%
- Use nanoscale powder to avoid broad white
- Surface-treated powders (e.g. silican treatment) are more dispersed
Sensitive skin formulation list of taboos
Absolutely disabled
Use caution.
Sensitive skin OEM formulation template
Template I: Shuming repairing fine (water agent)
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This article is published by the QuickOEM Make-up OEM Smart Matching Platform. More makeup OEM knowledge, cosmetics contract manufacturing, skin protection private label, make-up customizationontent are available at the Knowledge Centre. If you need advice on OEM contract manufacturing, please contact 1814805760 or submit your request through an online request for quotation.
Keywords: sensitive skin formulation design, skin barrier repairing, ceramide formulation, sensitive skin OEM, soothing anti-inflammation ingredient, moderate formulation barrier repair, formulation design, cosmetics formulation design, make-up formulation R&D, skin protection formulation knowledge, formulation process
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