Brightening's top roller coaster life.

If the ingredient circle has a heat search list, 377 (benzophenol) is absolutely high for many years.

In 2019, Dr. Yukino was born under the simple name of a bottle called concentration, and the term ingredient - Symwhite® 377 - has been replaced by the term brightening.

At the peak, all brands were pushing 377-377, 377 face cream, 377 sheet mask...

Then in December 2021, regulatory compliance (EU / US FDA), a paper announcement, 377 was basically sentenced to death in China's ordinary cosmetics.

So, is 377 safe? Is the brand still working? What do consumers do?

Let's get this straight.

♪ One minute to read 377 ♪

📌 Qualitative sentence: 377 is one of the strongest non-acid glycerine inhibitors known at present, but in China special cosmetics (stamping brightening class) regulatory filing are required to be banned from ordinary cosmetics.

What the hell is a 377? How does it work?

From the pine tower to the lab.

The story of 377 began with the pine fruit of the Scots Pine -

Scientists at Symrise in Germany found a natural brightening ingredient silver pine (Pinosylvin) contained in the brightening , which has a strong inhibition effect on the cheesy carbarase.

But the silver pine itself was not stable, so the chemist modified it, introduced a "phenythyl" side chain to the molecule and obtained phenylethyl phenol (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) -

That's the late Symwhite 377, patent No. EP2216052.

Brightening mechanism: the "fakeer" of chesamate

In the composite path of melanin, Tyrosinase is the key catalytic enzyme - it acts as a doba, then as doba, and eventually as melanin.

377's chemical structure is very similar to chesamate (like twins), which can "falsify" chesamate, deceiving chesamate and combining with itself.

The enzymes were taken by 377, so they couldn't catalyse melanin to produce melanin.

That's what the literature used to say about "competitive inhibition."

📊 377 vs Other brightening ingredient: Data talking

* Bibliography source: Symrise internal study *Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology* (2020) + ScienceDirect Overview (S09280987, 2019)

Core findings:

  • 377 brightening ingredient
  • 22 times greater than kojic acid, 100 times more than arbutin -- this is real data, not marketing.
  • But the security rating is medium. It's not good for closed eyes.

2021 regulatory compliance (EU / US FDA) The truth of the ban: is 377 working in China?

This is the main concern of all ingredient parties and must be said separately:

Common cosmetics: not usable

December 2021, regulatory compliance (EU / US FDA) made it clear:

  • 377 (benzophenol) for special-purpose cosmetics only (stamping brightening class)
  • Common cosmetics (including moisturizing, recharge, antioxidant class) may not be added
  • We'll have to find out.

Reason: 377 belong to the category of brightening special efficacy ingredient, which requires registration through special cosmetics, safety and efficacy sex are subject to official evaluation.

Special-purpose cosmetics: available, subject to compliance

In order to sell 377 products in China, it is necessary to:

  • Special cosmetics registration (3-6 months cycle)
  • Efficacy test report (human efficacy evaluation test at a cost of $5.15 million)
  • Security assessment report (CIR/SCCS data support)
  • Formulation concentration ≤0.5% (regulatory compliance (EU / US FDA) ceiling)

QuickOEM provides full compliance services from raw materials procurement, formulation design, efficacy detection of special cosmetic registration declarations, MOQ 3000.

Brightening effect Add

377 brightening access is inhibiting melanin generation (source) with other ingredient to achieve even more brightening:

• Guide to selected pits (consumer version)

1. Origin

  • Symwhite ® 377 patent protection, purity assured
  • Other sources of phenylethyl diphenylphenol vary in quality, paying attention to feedstock specifications

2. Look concentration

  • Effective concentration: 0.1 - 0.5% (regulatory compliance (EU / US FDA) ceiling is also 0.5%)
  • Under 0.1% of 377 is basically "conceptual addition" with limited effect.
  • Dr. Yukino: 0.5% (up to ceiling)

Category

  • Regulated product category product (national make-up)
  • Normal fine/ face cream (no regulated product category) → If it contains 377, the product does not comply
  • Regulatory filing: regulatory compliance (EU / US FDA)

4. Matching

  • It's got 377 + high concentration alcohol.
  • Soothing ingredient (panthenol, dipotassium glycyrrhizate)

Who's fit for 377?

  • Hyperpigmentation, sun spots, acne marks
  • Skin tolerance (377 with slight irritation potential, sensitive skin
  • ✅ Seek rapid brightening effects (377 effects relatively quickly)
  • Sensitive skin, muscles damaged by the barrier: repairing barrier used
  • :: Pregnant women/lactation: caution (recommended to consult a doctor)

OEM/brand entry 377: Compliance route Figure

QuickOEM points out that the registration of special cosmetics is a barrier to the differentiation of the high-end brightening brand by entering the barrier to entry and being a branded moat - once regulated product category has been taken, the competitors of the same kind cannot be imitated for a short time.

I'll tell you what.

Tomorrow we'll reveal "Balance FloraTM" -- the ingredient of the Yaslande little brown bottle, why is it called "skinned probiotics"?

QuickOEM Knowledge Centre, one ingredient per day, easy to become formulation man!

See here: QuickOEM provides 377 special cosmetics full process compliance service, from formulation R&D to regulated product category registration one stop, MOQ 3000, with three months to deliver the first batch. :: Free access to compliance programmes

Other Organiser

This article is published by the QuickOEM Make-up OEM Smart Matching Platform. More makeup OEM knowledge, cosmetics contract manufacturing, skin protection private label, make-up customizationontent are available at the Knowledge Centre. If you need advice on OEM contract manufacturing, please contact 1814805760 or submit your request through an online request for quotation.

Keywords: Symrise, packaging materials, Symwhite377 brightening, OEM, 377 ingredient contrast, Kojic Acid, efficacy, 377 ingredient, Aol, Symwhite, befriendliness, 377,377 special cosmetics regulatory filing, MOQ, efficacy evaluation, ingredient skin protection, ingredient decomposition, ingredient make-up, ingredient safety, ingredient skin protection

QuickOEM is a QuickOEM platform for vertical digitization of cosmetics services (known as QuickOEM) focusing on OEM, cosmetics contract manufacturing, skins private label, cosmetics z, brand-wide, ODM contract manufacturing services. AI smart matches the 500+ certification contract manufacturing plant, providing a one-stop package from formulation R&D to regulatory compliance (EU / US FDA) covering skin, makeup, sheet mask, serum, eye patch, category, category, etc.

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